Belgian Holiday Treats on NPR

I'm back home again in Indiana. I got in last night to my family jumping up and down (mostly mom), a blazing fire in the fireplace and A Christmas Story (which is set in Northern Indiana, the elementary school looking uncannily similar to my brother's and mine) on the television. Tonight we had a little music party with old family friends; my parents made beef chalupa, I made pimento cheese and pie and homemade peppermint patties (gotta keep it alliterative), and we all chipped in on cheese and veggie plates.

But I haven't seen my grandmother yet. Tomorrow, though, for Christmas Eve, she'll come over with tins full of sugar cookies and pizzelles and speculaas, and probably try to clean the kitchen until we make her sit down on the couch and tell me stories about the Christmases of her childhood. A few weeks ago on NPR's Kitchen Window, I shared some stories of my hers and my own, of our Sinterklaas celebrations, a transplanted tradition from her Belgian and French heritage.

In the piece, you'll find recipes for the Belgian windmill cookies--speculaas (or speculoos)--that were ever-present in my grandmother's cookie jar, oliebollen-- a Dutch/Belgian apple doughnut, lukken--a Belgian waffle cookie typically enjoyed on New Year's, and Speculoos pie--made from speculoos cookie butter and featured here previously. Though Sinterklaas is a few weeks gone by, these treats would make excellent additions to your own music parties, fireside chats, or other holiday traditions, new or old. You can find the whole story and the recipes here. Many thanks to Sebastiaan Zijp, Victoria Lau of Ice Cream Jubilee, my Belgian relatives, editor Bonny Wolf, and my wonderful grandmother Georgette Harding for their generous help with the story.

Sweet Potato Speculoos Pie

A few weeks ago, when I posted the recipe for speculoos pie (made with speculoos cookie butter), my friend, the cookbook author and Zenchilada editor Ronni Lundy, shared a little secret of culinary genius. She said that she often puts the cookie butter on a sweet potato while it's still warm, "melted and married in a beautiful, beautiful party." Woah. And as if that wasn't enough to ruin me, she added, "maybe you can do a sweet potato speculoos pie?"

A completely genius pairing, I tell ya-- like the chocolate peanut butter pretzel tart, a wild combination. Of course the two are perfectly suited, as the spices in speculoos (for more about the cookie and the butter read here) being largely the same as those often used in sweet potato pie. With the brilliant orange of the "yams" and the deep brown of the speculoos, I thought a swirl effect was in the cards, and I chose to use the bright Garnet yams for their amped up color. I found this recipe for Nutella swirled pumpkin pie (from Sally's Baking Addiction) to work from and we were off-- sweet potato and speculoos were joined in wholy pie form at last.

Since the idea came from Ms. Lundy (and because she requested republishing dibs), I'm giving her name to this swirled & spiced classic of a dessert. Though I added my filling to a gingersnap crust this time, a normal butter pie crust would be just dandy.



Ronni's Sweet Potato Speculoos Pie
Adapted from Sally's Baking Addiction's Nutella Swirled Pumpkin Pie

Ingredients
For crust:
1 1/2 c. gingersnaps graham cracker crumbs
4 Tblsp. unsalted butter
1 Tblsp. sugar
1/4 tsp. salt

For filling:
3 large eggs
2 c. (15 oz.) fresh sweet potato purée (Garnet yams are best for taste and color)
1/2 c. heavy cream
1/2 c. light brown sugar
1 tsp. cinnamon
1/2 tsp. ground ginger
1/4 tsp. ground cloves
1/4 tsp. ground nutmeg
1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 c. Speculoos cookie butter

Directions
For crust:
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Pour gingersnap or graham cracker crumbs in a bowl and add melted butter, sugar, and salt, stirring until well mixed. 

2. Pat the buttery crumbs into a 9-inch pie pan, pressing mixture into the bottom and sides to form a pie crust. Place in oven and bake until crust is lightly browned, about 10-12 minutes. Place on a cooling rack and let cool to room temperature before adding the filling.

For filling:
1. Leave oven at 350 degrees F. In a large bowl or bowl of a standing mixer, whisk eggs lightly. Add the rest of the ingredients, except for the Speculoos cookie butter, and mix well to combine. Reserve 1/2 c. of the mixture and pour the rest into the pie crust. 

2. Combine the reserved 1/2 c. of pie filling with the cookie butter. Ladle spoonfulls of it onto the sweet potato filling and use a butter knife to swirl the cookie butter mixture with the sweet potato mixture.

3. Bake pie for 40-45 minutes until filling is well set. Let cool and serve chilled or at room temperature with bourbon whipped cream or cinnamon bourbon ice cream. Enjoy!

I LOVE sweet potato pie, and I've never had one quite like this before. The speculoos contributes spice while also adding a smooth, rich texture. I enjoyed my slice with cinnamon-bourbon ice cream from local artisanal ice cream producer Ice Cream Jubilee--a perfect pairing times two.

Pie Almanac Release Party!

Our Pie Almanac Release Party last night at Ginger Root was SO. MUCH. FUN!  Except for one film shot of Diego (pictured in the Speculoos PEZ previously) eating the last crumbs of the Nutella Pie with a big smirk on his face, I only took pictures of pie, but the above Instagrams by Grant Dickie, Morgan of Panda Head and Carla of TPWP can help set the scene. It was really wonderful to see so many friends, and meet lots of new ones, all of whom were so encouraging and supportive and pumped on pie and pie art. Elizabeth and I want to extend a very big thank you to the Ginger Root gals for hosting us in their lovely space, DJ Dianamatic for playing awesome jams, and everyone who came, bought a book, sampled pie, or said hello. I even had two pals, Annie & Diego who drove all the way from Charlottesville! That little surprise made me feel really good.

I know some people were asking for recipes for the pies that were offered last night. Our selections were:
Bittersweet Chocolate Pecan
Nutella Pie
Shaker Lemon Pie (Shaker Orange Tart version here)
Speculoos Pie
Spiced Pumpkin Sorghum Pie (adapted from this recipe)
Sweet Potato Speculoos Pie (coming soon!)

If you missed the party, you can still order the almanac on Etsy here, where you can also find more of Elizabeth Graeber's work, like the framed pie prints pictured here! The almanac is now also for sale at local shops including Ginger Root and Meeps-- We'll keep you posted as they appear other places. Thanks again to everyone for their support and happy pie making!

Speculoos Icebox Pie

My grandmother Georgette is half Belgian and half French, so her cookie jar was always filled with the Belgian/Dutch ginger snap-like windmill cookies, speculaas or speculoos. Later when I studied abroad in France, I was pleased to find that many cafés there served miniature speculoos with coffee, and I've also been given them as a snack on an airplane. Aside from that, I didn't really consider baking them or using them in other recipes. They were something I ate at home for Sinterklaas/St. Nicholas Day on December 6th or when my grandmother brought over a tin on Christmas.

That was until my housemate Bobbie introduced me to Speculoos Cookie Butter. I recall having something like it when I was younger--a jar shipped over from Belgium or bought at the German imported goods store--though I remember it being some type of swirled blend of speculoos cookies and hazlenut, like a gingery Nutella. Speculoos Cookie Butter, however, is a Trader Joe's product (though on the label it indicates its made in the Netherlands, and there are other varieties) made from crushed up speculoos cookies, ground to the texture of peanut butter. It is smooth and buttery, slightly spiced with little granules of sugar, and totally dangerous and really addictive!



I was very excited to find this recipe for Lemon Speculoos Layer Cake by Desserts for Breakfast, and I made it for Bobbie's birthday, as several times now I've caught her in the kitchen with just a spoon and a jar of speculoos. It was really REALLY good, and the use of the cookie butter for the frosting got me thinking...what about a Speculoos Pie??!??

Last winter I made this Nutella Icebox Pie, and I figured that since Nutella and the cookie butter were essentially the same consistency, I could swap out Nutella for Speculoos. I changed the sugar amounts a bit, and added a chocolate ganache on top.

Speculoos Pie

Ingredients

For crust:

1 package Oreos (or chocolate sandwich cookie substitute)

3 Tblsp. butter, melted

For filling:

8 oz. cream cheese, softened

1/2 c. powdered sugar + 2 Tblsp.

3/4 c. Speculoos

1 c. heavy whipping cream

1 tsp. vanilla

For chocolate ganache:

3.5 oz. 60-70% dark chocolate (unsweetened), broken into pieces
1/2 c. sugar 

scant 1/2 c. heavy cream 

1 tsp. sea salt

Directions

For crust:

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Pulse cookies in a food processor until they form a fairly fine powder. Mix in melted butter and sugar until well incorporated. Pat filling into a 9 or 10-in. pie plate. 

2. Bake crust for about 7 minutes, let cool, then put in the freezer while you prepare the filling.

For filling:

1. In a bowl, mix the cream cheese and 1/2 c. powdered sugar using a hand mixer, about one minute. Add 3/4 cup Speculoos and beat until fluffy, about three minutes (continue even once it's combined so filling gets fluffy). 

2. In a separate bowl, beat 1c. of heavy whipping cream, vanilla, and 2 tablespoons of powdered sugar until stiff peaks have formed- approximately 3-4 minutes. Starting with 1/3 of the whipped cream mixture, fold the whipped cream into the Speculoos mixture. 

3. Once it's combined, add the remaining whipped cream to the Speculoos mixture, folding gently until thoroughly mixed. Pour the mixture into the cookie crust. Freeze pie for about 20 minutes, meanwhile, make the chocolate ganache. 

For chocolate ganache:

1. Put chocolate, sugar, heavy cream, and salt into the top of a double boiler. Put water in the bottom of the boiler and place on medium heat until filling is melted, glossy, and thick.

2. Drizzle the ganache over the chilled pie and place in the freezer  for at least 1 hour. Remove pie from freezer about 20 minutes before serving and serve while still slightly chilled.

I've actually been sitting on this recipe for a while, as it strikes me as a recipe for the holidays, particularly because of the association of speculoos cookies and Sinterklaas Day. Even though it's technically an icebox pie, it would be really wonderful eaten round the fire with a cup of Belgian hot chocolate and a game of Scrabble or Miracle on 34th Street on the television.

 I, however, made it back in September for our friend Joe's going away party in Charlottesville. He was moving to Nashville to join a touring country band, so we needed to celebrate him in style, that is, with a pie and decorative flags citing an old Hank Williams number. Regardless of what time of year you make it, though, or for what occasion, it'll make whoever you share it with look like a bunch of happy kids who just got a bunch of sweet treats (like a Speculoos Pie) in their wooden shoes.